THE ARCHIVE
Grounds
Roman invasion | Roman invasion |
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I’m too young to remember the 1970s, but in the Curva Sud of Rome’s Stadio Olimpico I wonder if English football was like this 30 years ago. It is complete chaos. The curva holds about 10,000 fans but it seems like 20,000 have got in, climbing over from other sections, or persuading God-knows-who to let them into the ground. You had to get here two hours ago to have a hope of a seat. Now it’s standing room only on the steps and no one can move up or down because all the gangways are blocked. More are still trying to get in. There is a thick haze of smoke in the air, which has been created by a spectacular firework display in the curva. After that, flares are hurled randomly over the fences. All bounce harmlessly along the running track, falling short of the pitch, although the odd one strikes an advertising hoarding, setting it on fire. Unruffled firemen, posted ready, pick up the fireworks with long metal pincers and sink them into hissing buckets of water, while colleagues casually extinguish the flames. Police dogs are going ballistic, launching a volley of barks every time there’s an explosion, tugging and bouncing on their leashes. However, it’s the riot police who impress the most, lolling side by side with the fans, who are hurling and receiving such missiles as plastic bottles and flares. The police only get involved if it gets really out of hand. Then they enthusiastically batter anyone in sight. Tonight is different, however. Tonight is derby night and there’s something in the air – apart from the tang of tear gas and firework smoke. I’ve been warned to stay away by Roma fans who know something is going to happen. It’s not insider information – just that everyone knows how unpredictable the Roma-Lazio derby can be. It’s a war, not a football match. Before kick-off, the streets round the stadium have been erupting with incidents, police in full riot gear charging battling fans, lobbing canisters of tear gas. Most fans watch the match with red and streaming eyes. I don’t enjoy the first half much anyway, the players are tense – passes are falling short, Francesco Totti and Antonio Cassano aren’t communicating like they can. I hope things will alter after the break. From WSC 207 May 2004. What was happening this month On the subject...
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